Choosing a guinea pig

Choosing a guinea pig is a very exciting time but you should take care not to make decisions about a new guinea pig on impulse!

Pet shops are the traditional place to buy pet guinea pigs, but unfortunately, they’re not always the best places. Guinea pigs in pet shops are often stressed, and as a result, are susceptible to disease. Also, you will be unlikely to have information about the guinea pig’s parents, which is particularly important in breeds that are prone to inherited diseases.

A list of registered guinea pig breeders is available from the British Cavy Council. For non-pedigree guinea pigs, contact your local welfare charity, or look at the advertisement board in your veterinary practice, newspapers and your local post office or shop.

When choosing a baby guinea pig, try to see it with its mother and littermates, as it’s easier to judge its temperament in a natural setting. Also, ask about the health of the parents as this may alert to you to potential problems.

If you get a guinea pig that is already carrying a disease, it may never recovery full health and treatment may be expensive.

A healthy guinea pig will have clear bright eyes, clean nostrils and ears and a shiny coat. If your guinea pig has runny eyes, is sneezing or has nasal discharge, it probably has a severe respiratory infection. Being able to see the third eyelid (a membrane in the corner of its eyes nearest the nose) or a dull coat are also signs of ill health. Avoid taking on a guinea pig with dirty ears which may be infected with bacteria or ear mites, or an animal that’s thin. If you’re in any doubt, ask the have the guinea pig examined by your veterinarian before agreeing to take it on. In any case, make an appointment for any new guinea pig to be examined by your veterinarian on the second or third day in your care. Your veterinarian will check that your guinea pig is healthy, and give you advice on feeding, vaccination and neutering.

Before taking a guinea pig home, find out about the type of car it was getting. Baby guinea pigs can leave their mothers from about eight weeks of age. You also need to know what sort of food it has been eating. Feed the same food for a few days and reintroduce new foods very gradually over a period of at least 2 weeks (if you need to) so that your guinea pig’s digestive system does not get too much of a shock.

Have all the necessary equipment ready before bringing a new guinea pig home.

You should have the following:

• A carrying box.
• Food and water bowels.
• Food, including guinea pig pellets, fresh vegetables and hay.
• A grooming brush and comb, and nail clippers.
• Guinea pig toys.
• A secure enclosed run – if your guinea pig is going to live outside it will need an outdoor hutch with sawdust and hay bedding. If it’s going to live inside it will need an indoor cage and suitable bedding material.

The first days away from its mother and littermates are understandably stressful for most guinea pigs. Outdoor guinea pigs should be confined to their hutch for the first 2-3 days before allowing then out in their run. Indoor guinea pigs should be kept in their cage in a quiet room for the first few days. If there are young children in the house, they must not become overexcited or treat the guinea pig like a toy. Ensure any other pets in the house can’t access the guinea pig or frighten it; guinea pigs are prey animals and contact with a dog or cat would be terrifying.

Regular daily grooming for long-haired guinea pigs is recommended to keep their coat in good condition; short-haired breeds will also benefit from grooming, particularly when they’re moulting. Coat brushing is easier if your guinea pig is used to it from an early age.

Male guinea pigs are usually neutered between the ages of 4 and 6 depending on their weight. Male guinea pigs can still be fertile for up to 8 weeks after surgery.

Register your new pet with your veterinary practice as soon as possible and visit the practice to get advice on routine health care and neutering before problems develop.