Guinea pig companions

In the wild large groups of guinea pigs will live happily together, providing company, security and physical grooming to each other. Company of their own kind is just as important for pet guinea pigs too. However, to ensure that the bonding process is as trouble-free as possible, there are some simple, but important guidelines that should be followed.

Obviously if you keep a male and female together and neither animal is neutered, you’ll soon end up with lots of baby guinea pigs! Female guinea pigs live well together, in pairs or small groups. Male guinea pigs can fight, although this is less likely if they are litter mates that have been together since birth. Male guinea pigs will form a hierarchy that means that subordinate males will get bitten and bullied.

Male guinea pigs are easier to neuter than females, but guinea pigs do not respond well to anesthesia, hospital stays and surgery. The safest, easiest and most cost-effective answer is to keep guinea pigs in single sex pairs/groups.

Up until a few years ago, many rabbit and guinea pig books recommended keeping guinea pigs with rabbits for companionship reasons, but the tide has turned and now the majority of rabbit and guinea pig books, as well as rescue centres, animal organizations and veterinarians, agree that the two should be kept with their own kind and not mixed.

Guinea pigs are rodents and have different dietary requirements from rabbits. Guinea pigs are unable to synthesize their own vitamin C, so require fresh foods high in vitamin C (dark leafy vegetables such as dandelion leaves, spring greens, kale, etc). These foods also provide guinea pigs with essential fiber. Even docile rabbits will often bully and molest guinea pigs; chasing them, biting them, mounting them or even sitting on them, which can cause serious and fatal injuries to the guinea pig, not to mention the stress they endure.

Even the smallest of rabbits is going to be comparable in size to a guinea pig, with powerful back legs, which are more than capable of causing serious injury to a guinea pig. Having a hideaway where only the guinea pig can fit into isn’t a satisfactory compromise as there may be occasions when the guinea pig is unable to reach its safe area, eg if it is forced into a corner. However, in the rabbit’s defence, it has also been known for guinea pigs to bully rabbits!

Having ascertained that guinea pigs should live with guinea pigs and that company in the form of another guinea pig is preferable, how do you actually go about trying to bond guinea pigs?

When selecting the guinea pigs getting them as litter mates will have the most successful outcome. The bonding process is the same if you are attempting to bond two guinea pigs of the same sex or one of each sex. Guinea pigs are often very territorial, and introductions need to be done carefully. Firstly, the boar must be neutered; if the guinea pigs aren’t old enough to be neutered then continue at stage 1 until the boar have been neutered and recovered from their operation (bearing in mind that a boar may still be able to impregnate a sow for at least 8 weeks after castration, so keeping a sow and boar apart for around 9 weeks after neutering is advisable).

Stage 1

Place each guinea pig in a cage, where they can see and smell each other through the wire of the cages but cannot get at each other to cause injury. Swap their toileting litter and toys over every day, so each guinea pig gets used to the others scent.

Stage 2

When you are happy that the guinea pigs are both at ease with each other and showing no aggression, you can begin mixing them for supervised, short periods of time in a neutral place – somewhere where neither guinea pig has been before, so could claim as their territory, ie a room in the house, bath-tub, new run, etc.

Place lots of toys in the area (rattles, tunnels, boxes to hide in, balls etc, which has neither guinea pig’s scent on) to help distract the guinea pig’s attention from each other and at least two feeding bowls so the guinea pigs don’t feel they have to compete for food.

Some chasing, nipping or mounting is perfectly normal. Continue putting the guinea pigs together like this on a daily basis or several times a day if possible, until the guinea pigs seem to accept each other. Leave them together for as long as possible (always supervised), increasing the time when you feel they are comfortable with each other.

Sometimes guinea pigs can just ‘fall in love at first sight’ and if this happens, followed by mutual grooming of each other, they should be OK to be left together unsupervised, as this is the stage that you want to achieve.

If serious fighting breaks out, separate the guinea pigs immediately (being very careful not to get bitten yourself – use blankets, cushions or cardboard sheets to push between them) and revert back to stage 1, until the aggression disappears, and then move back onto stage 2 again (this may have to be repeated several times).

Car journeys

If the guinea pigs seem accepting of each other but are still showing some nipping and chasing of each other, you can also try taking them for car journeys. Place the guinea pigs in a large enough carrier for the two of them and take them for a short car journey. This is a stressful experience, so the guinea pigs will rely upon each other for support, rather than attempting to fight, and begin to form a bond. If any tension is shown then separate the guinea pigs immediately, but the journey times can be gradually increased if both guinea pigs seem okay. This can be done daily or as often as you feel necessary, for as long as necessary.

Stage 3

The aim is to get the guinea pigs to accept one another and rely upon each other for support and company. Once the guinea pigs have begun grooming each other you can be pretty confident that no real aggression will be shown from this point onwards, but it is very wise to keep a close eye on them both for several weeks afterwards.

There are no set rules for bonding guinea pigs it can be an instant attraction or take many weeks or months of hard work. Sometimes you may never be able to bond two specific guinea pigs together.

Guinea pigs do have distinct preferences as to who they want to live with and will sometimes not bond with a specific guinea pig, only to happily accept the next guinea pig you try and bond to them. Even bonded pairs may have tiffs when an increase or return of nipping, chasing and mounting may be seen (usually around spring). This is normal and as long as no real aggression is shown they shouldn’t be separated. However, it is wise to keep a closer eye on both guinea pigs at these times.

Yes, even guinea pigs who haven’t even set eyes on another guinea pig for many years can happily accept a guinea pig pal and often a younger pal will give an elderly guinea pig a new lease of life in their twilight years.

A rescue centre is usually the best place. Often the guinea pigs are already neutered, and some will also allow you to take your guinea pig along to select a friend for an existing guinea pig.

Another added advantage is that if you really can’t bond a guinea pig from a rescue centre to your existing guinea pig, the rescue centre should be able to take the guinea pig back and you can try your guinea pig with another from the centre.

Bonded pairs should never be separated what illnesses one guinea pig has the other is liable to already have anyway. If one guinea pig has to go to the veterinary surgery or be hospitalized, take its mate along for company. Often having their mate there will give the sick guinea pig encouragement to carry on and taking their mate away when they are ill will only depress and upset both guinea pigs.

Frequently, bonded pairs who are split up, for even a short amount of time will have to be re-bonded when being introduced again and may not accept each other again, so it is imperative that pairs are never separated unless it is detrimental to one or both of their health to stay together.

When the sad time comes you will be understandably very upset, but your guinea pig may also be affected and there are things that you can do to make this time easier on them.

Try and let the guinea pig that has been left behind, spend some time with their companion’s body. This enables the guinea pig to realize that their friend has gone. The guinea pig may initially nudge the body trying to get them to move. This can go on for seconds, minutes or hours and if possible, it is best to leave the body with the remaining guinea pig until they lose interest in it and move away from them. At this point you can remove the guinea pig’s body.

Watch the guinea pig closely for any changes in their behavior. They may seem more lethargic and depressed and not want to eat as much. Ensure that they keep eating, drinking, urinating and passing feces and if you are concerned about their health then contact your veterinarian straight away.

Spend more time with your guinea pig. They are used to having a constant companion so will be feeling lonely, confused and maybe scared. Offer them their favourite foods, play games with them or just sit, stroke and talk to them gently.

Consider getting another guinea pig as a companion. This may feel like the last thing on your mind, but it may be the best option for the guinea pig that has been left behind. Rescue centres always have guinea pigs that are in need of a loving home and will often come neutered and many rescue centres will undertake bonding introductions so you can see if the guinea pigs are going to get along together.

• Introduce only neutered males.
• One boar and one or more sows is the most successful combination.
• Introduce guinea pigs on neutral territory.
• Never split up bonded pairs unless serious fighting occurs.
• Some nipping, chasing or mounting is normal, even in bonded pairs.
• Immediately separate guinea pigs if serious fighting occurs.
• It is not a good idea to mix rabbits and guinea pigs.
• Try and go to a rescue centre to acquire a guinea pig-pal.
• It may be love at first sight, but it could also take months of perseverance.