Buying and looking after any pet is a big responsibility. You must ensure that your pet has appropriate housing, environment and food. Axolotls are interesting creatures but do require some specific care which should be considered before committing to owning one.

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Axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum) are a type of amphibian, more specifically a type of salamander. They naturally live in the wild in high-altitude freshwater Lake Xochimilco in Mexico City, Mexico. In the wild they are black or brown, however the most common color in pets is albino. They are listed as an endangered species with CITES, due to habitat loss, pet trade and use as a food source, however nearly all pet axolotls are from captive-bred animals.

While axolotls are very interesting and unique creatures, they are very different to mammals (cats, dogs, rabbits) that are commonly kept as pets. They have very specific needs and if they aren’t cared for properly can become unwell. However, unlike a cat or a dog, it is a lot more difficult to tell if an axolotl is unwell as they don’t give much away! Axolotls cannot be handled or stroked like other pets as it can be harmful to them. You can interact with your axolotl by hand feeding or observing them.

Axolotls are carnivores, which means they eat meat/insects/commercial axolotl pellets only. Live insects can encourage feeding activity especially when they are young and learning, however insects with thick/hard exoskeletons should be avoided. They can also be hand fed. Young animals should be fed daily, while adult axolotls should be fed 2-3 times a week. Do not overfeed, all food should be gone in 2-3 minutes. If not, reduce the amount offered on the next feed and remove all uneaten food after a few minutes to reduce waste build up. Adult axolotls can be fed a mixture of brine shrimp/'sea monkeys', earthworms/'nightcrawlers', bloodworms, blackworms and salmon pellets. Avoid earthworms taken from the garden, as contamination with toxins cannot be ruled out. For young axolotls, daphnia, whiteworms and grindal worms can also be fed. Commercially formulated pelleted diets are available, specifically for axolotls. All food should be supplemented with calcium and insects ‘gut loaded’, alongside a varied diet. Axolotls like to gulp food, which means that anything that can fit in their mouths is swallowed - this can include gravel, rocks, substrate and other tank inhabitants (including fish)!

Axolotls spend their entire life in water – they mostly breathe through gills rather than a mouth – with similar environmental needs to fish. It is recommended to house axolotls alone, without other aquatic species, other axolotls or fish as they can fight or even eat each other when young. That said, given enough tank space, axolotls may live together successfully. Axolotls need to be kept in a tank/aquarium, ideally with a glass top to prevent them jumping out. The larger the enclosure the better – a 150 liter tank is suggested as minimum size for a single axolotl. The tank length should be prioritized over tank height – as it is the floor area that it is most important to axolotls. Ideally keep them in a quiet area with little traffic as they are easily stressed by noise or movement. Axolotls do not need strict lighting or UVb lamps and are very sensitive to sudden changes. Most of the time, ambient room light is enough without needing a light specifically for your axolotl’s tank. Never add a new axolotl to an aquarium/tank without quarantining in a smaller tank to observe first. This way you can monitor a new animal for normal behavior and activity – making sure it’s moving and eating normally. Otherwise, this can introduce diseases.

Tap water can be used to fill up the tank but should either be left to stand for 24 hours or use a de-chlorinator, as chlorine is harmful to axolotls. If you live in an area that adds chloramine to the water, then a de-chlorinator is essential. You can check this with your local water supplier. It is important to use an axolotl-specific dechlorinator, as some of the dechlorinators for fish tanks contain aloe vera, which is harmful to axolotls. Use an allocated bucket for water changes and do not use this bucket for anything else. Axolotls are very sensitive to chemicals and the use of a bucket that has contained cleaning fluid, paint residues, etc, could harm your axolotl. You will need to buy a water quality test kit for aquarium species and test this weekly:

• pH (how acidic the water is):4-7.6 is ideal.
• Chlorine/chloramine: 0 parts per million (ppm).
• Ammonia: 0ppm.
• Nitrite: 0ppm.
• Nitrate: <10 ppm.

A normal captive lifespan is approximately 10-15 years, but they can live as long as 25 years, so it is a big commitment when you take on an axolotl. Adults can reach 23-35cm in length, so once fully grown they can need a large tank. Telling apart males from females can be difficult, generally males are longer, have a bulge below their vent/cloaca and black nails, females will have neither. They are considered adults when over 12 months of age or over 18cm in length. Try not to touch your axolotl as their skin is very sensitive to toxins. If you need to catch your axolotl, for example to take to your veterinarian, use a fine, soft net and transfer to a smaller tank of tank water. Your healthy axolotl should have big fluffy gills (sometimes called “floofers”).

Any color or texture change on your axolotl’s skin or gills could be a sign of infection and you should seek veterinarian help. If your axolotl doesn’t eat, is losing weight or seems more lethargic than normal, this could mean they have an internal problem such as an infection or a blockage. Axolotls are prone to eating things they shouldn’t do and anything missing in the aquarium should be noted and veterinarian attention sought. Axolotls are very sensitive to heat or temperatures over 24^oC/75.2 ^oF. This can cause floating, not eating and infections. If overfed, axolotls can also get obese.

If you are worried your axolotl is unwell you should seek a veterinarian. Try to choose a veterinarian who has a special interest in exotic pets. Some veterinarians choose to do extra qualifications in exotic, aquatic or zoological medicine. If your local veterinarians are not able to see your pet, they should be able to recommend a veterinarian who more commonly sees exotic pets.